During my last visit to Lisbon in June, I visited the incredible Alfama market, Feira da Ladra.
This market has such a nice vibe, and it’s the biggest and longest flea market I’ve ever experienced anywhere in the world.
You can buy fresh food from bakeries, collectibles, clothing, jewelry, tiles, and so much more.
The market is every Saturday and Tuesday from 9 a.m. to 6 p.m. in Graca at Campo de Santa Clara, and you just have to experience it.
When I arrived, I came from Principe Real, so I had to walk through the romantic, narrow streets in Alfama before arriving, and then it just popped up all of a sudden, and then you’re in the middle of it all.
It’s on both sides, and the stands are packed with items, often super unique.
I recommend spending the entire day here because before you know it, you’ve spent hours. It takes so long to get through all the stands, and it feels like they’re growing month over month.
There are also cafés and restaurants where you can eat, but I recommend going to Mercado de Santa Clara to try the snacks and food there, which will give you a chance to try a lot of different Portuguese things.
Feira da Ladra translates to “thieves’ market.” Its history dates back to the 13th century, when thieves could buy stolen things like tiles. Locals believe it’s named after ladro, a bug you can find in antique furniture.
At one end of the Alfama market, you can see the beautiful National Pantheon (Panteão Nacional).
No matter what you’re looking for, you can find it here: vintage clothing, Portuguese tiles, vintage lamps made of funky glass, original artwork, boxes of plates, and much more.
I have found and bought some beautiful paintings at this famous flea market, and I continue to visit every time I’m in the area.
A thing I’m eyeing at the moment is some authentic old Portuguese plates, but I haven’t bought them yet, and I’m still thinking about them as they’re beautiful.
As it is a lively flea market with many tourists, the prices may be higher, but you can still bargain, and I have some tips for this further down.
Would you like to see more nearby attractions? Then check out my interactive Lisbon map.
Things to Know Before Visiting Feira da Ladra
The Lisbon flea market is held on Tuesdays and Saturdays. It opens at 8:00 AM and closes at 2:00 PM.
It’s super easy to get to the market by walking(My preferred method) or using public transport:
Via Metro: Santa Apolonia is the closest station to the Feira da Ladra flea market. From the station, follow the signs towards the river. Continue walking along the riverfront to reach Alfama, a short walk from there.
Via Tram: I recommend the lines Tram 28 and 12. Look for stops close to the Alfama district. When you see a big church, the market is right behind. Tram 28 can get crowded during peak tourist seasons.
By Bus: Bus 734, 735, and 712, stop near Feira da Ladra. I recommend checking the Carris website for exact times.
Tip: If you plan to use public transportation extensively, consider purchasing a Lisboa Card or Navegante card. The Lisboa card offers unlimited travel on the metro, trams, buses, and discounts on various attractions.
6 Tips for Visiting Feira da Ladra Market
Here are some helpful tips for visiting the famous market.
- Arrive Early: All the unique things are available at the beginning. I once waited too long to buy a unique painting, which was gone an hour later. You have to be fast.
- Bring Cash: Some stands accept card payments, but I recommend you bring cash so you don’t limit yourself when you find something you want.
- Bargain: Negotiate on everything, no matter how uncomfortable it feels. There is also wiggle room. If you’re lucky and something you want to buy is available late in the day, the seller is often more inclined to sell it even cheaper because they see it as ending the day on a high.
- Keep Yourself Hydrated: Buy water at the restaurants or kiosks, or bring water. The market is enormous, so you’ll end up spending hours there, and it’s often right in the baking sun.
- Learn Some Portuguese Phrases: I’m lucky as my partner is Portuguese, but I recommend you learn some phrases, as not many understand English:
Quanto custa: The price of the item
Pode fazer um desconto: Can you give a discount?
Posso experimental: Can I try it on?
Aceita cartão ou só dinheiro: Do you accept cards or only cash?
Estou só a ver, obrigado(a): I’m just looking, thank you. - Avoid buying antique tiles: They are likely ripped off a building in Lisbon, which is super sad. Instead, buy glazed tile panels from reputable places.
Where to Eat at Feira da Ladra
I love to snack inside the Mercado de Santa Clara, where you can find Portuguese baked goods, tacos, bifanas, and much more. It’s incredible.
When I last visited, I tried a Pão com Chouriço from the bakery inside, and it was delicious. Pão com Chouriço is a traditional bread baked with Chouriço pork sausage inside.
You can also go to Copenhagen Coffee Lab on the square for a coffee or something light to eat. Alternatively, you can walk to Jardim Machado to enjoy an espresso at the Clara Cafe kiosk.
If you want some lunch, there is a restaurant at the edge of the permanent market hall called Tabernita. Here you can try a lot of different Portuguese food.
For a Saturday lunch, visit Santa Clara dos Cogumelos or head to Tazza in Giro. Here, you can enjoy a pasta bowl while enjoying the sunshine.
What to Do After Exploring The Lisbon Market
Even though the market doesn’t officially close until 6 pm, some stalls close at 2 PM or when they’re sold out. You can visit nearby attractions once you’ve explored the legendary flea market.
There is the National Pantheon dome, and you can explore the 17th-century church with a mausoleum.
Stand on the terrace for some fantastic views. Then head to the historic monument with azulejo tiles and rooftop terrace at Mosteiro de São Vicente de Fora.
From here, you can walk the streets and climb up to Graca, which has spectacular views of the city. Here, you can also find restaurants and wine bars.
If you want to experience a beautiful viewpoint, I can recommend Miradouro da Graça, which is just nearby.
For more places to visit, check out my Alfama walking guide.
Where to Stay Near Feira da Ladra
Feira da Ladra is well located, with many great hotels surrounding it.
- São Vicente Alfama Hotel has a restaurant and a beautiful terrace.
- The Editory Riverside Hotel is near the train station.
- Memmo Alfama is close to many of Lisbon’s most popular attractions.
Tip: Here are some of the best hotels in the Alfama district.
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Wrap-Up
If you’re in Alfama or Lisbon in general, you have to visit Feira da Ladra; it’s an unforgettable experience where you’ll most likely buy something unique.
You end up spending the entire day there because there is just so much to look at, taste, and, of course, try on.
Get your lunch at the surrounding restaurants or, like me, inside the Mercado in the middle of the flea market.
Lastly, if you want to make a good deal and you have the patience to wait, wait until the end, when it almost closes down, as people are more likely to sell it cheaper to end the day on a high.
If you want to experience more markets like Feira da Ladra, then check out my list of flea markets here.
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